We moved on to nara, East of Kyoto and home to even more UNESCO funded temples. Its not a great town but has a stunning park at one end that disappears off into the wooded hills. Beautiful red deer roam the park and the town freely.

The park is home to the largest wooden building in the world (Daibutsu-den), which in turn is home to the stunning Nio Guardians - 20ft high wooden warriors, beautifully sculpted and quite menacing.

We wander the park, take in the sumptious lake views and green green grassy hills and buy an amazing knife - carbon steel, 18 layers, seriously sharp and quite quite beautiful. Cannot wait to make cheese on toast with it when we get back!

Oh, and then Tom sleeps in the same room as his mum for the first time since he was 5. On the floor. Very comfy it was. The owner was nuts though, kept counting shoes all evening.