After Takayama, Sarah began a route march through Northern Honshu, with a brief stop allowed at Shirakawa-go. A stunning collection of old farmhouses set in a lush green valley, they are now a UNESCO world heritage site and, despite the crowds, a fascinating glimpse into rural Japanese life.

It took 530 men to recently reroof the main structure in the village. They are serious about their thatch in these parts. But they do get a lot of snow, so fair play. They also get 5 or 6 floors to play with and some of the finest tea Sarah's ever tasted - wild grass tea, she's going all misty eyed now even at the mere mention.