Some of the best journeys we’ve done have been across borders. You get so far off the beaten track that it’s the best chance to meet locals. So we set out for our 4 day trip from Kigali to Dar Es Salaam excited, but with no great plan. This route doesn’t exist in the guidebooks.

After walking across the border into Tanzania, we get a taxi, then jump into a minibus to Kahama. It’s a 300km 5hr journey surrounded by chickens and Kalashnikovs. At one point, the 14 seater van has 28 people on board. We’re constantly called Mizungo (a derogatory term for the white man) and hissed at. We pass refugee villages. Huge storks wander about under enormous skies.